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10 Types of Diamond Shapes: Chart, Cuts & UK Buying Guide
- November 9, 2025
- 2
Choosing a diamond starts with shape—the outline you see face‑up—yet it’s where many people get stuck. Shape affects how much a stone sparkles, how large it looks for its carat, how it sits on your hand and which settings will keep it secure. Add jargon like “bow‑tie”, step vs brilliant faceting, and length‑to‑width ratios, plus UK realities such as price differences between shapes, natural vs lab‑grown options and certification acronyms (GIA, IGI), and it’s no wonder the decision feels high‑stakes.
This guide sorts it out. You’ll find a shape chart and an expert breakdown of the 10 most‑chosen diamond shapes, each with: a style overview, how the facets handle light, pros and cons, best ring settings, face‑up size and finger coverage, and UK‑specific buying tips on price, certificates and pitfalls to avoid. Written by Hatton Garden jewellers A Star Diamonds, it’s designed to help you choose with confidence and get the most beauty for your budget. Here’s how the main shapes compare—starting with the round brilliant.
Table of Contents
Toggle1. Round brilliant diamond
If you’re comparing the main types of diamond shapes, the round brilliant is the benchmark. It’s the most requested for engagement rings thanks to its symmetry, unmatched sparkle and total versatility across settings and hand shapes.
Outline and style at a glance
Classic and timeless, the round brilliant reads as balanced and elegant on every finger. Its circular outline suits minimalist solitaires as much as ornate halos and three‑stone designs.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Round brilliant (not a fancy shape) |
| Typical facets | 57–58 |
| Vibe | Iconic, versatile, maximum sparkle |
Cut style, facets and light return
With 57–58 precisely arranged facets, the round brilliant is engineered for light performance. When proportions, symmetry and polish are strong, it returns light with intense brilliance, fire and scintillation from every angle. Cut quality matters more here than any other factor for overall beauty.
Pros and cons
Round brilliants deliver consistent performance and broad design freedom, but they do carry a price premium versus fancy shapes.
- Pros:
- Brightest sparkle: Optimised for brilliance and fire.
- Most popular: Timeless look that pairs with any setting.
- Easier to source in top cuts: Plenty of options graded Excellent/Ideal.
- Cons:
- Higher price per carat: Typically the most expensive shape.
- Face‑up spread: Looks smaller than elongated shapes of the same carat.
Best ring settings
A round brilliant works with virtually every setting style. Choose the look first, then calibrate the diamond.
- Solitaire (claw or bezel): Pure, modern or classic.
- Pavé or diamond band: Extra sparkle without overpowering the centre.
- Halo: Maximises presence and finger coverage.
- Three‑stone: Flanked by rounds, pears or baguettes for width.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
By design the ideal length‑to‑width ratio is ~1.00, giving perfect symmetry. Compared like‑for‑like carat weights, ovals, pears and marquise can look larger due to their elongated outlines, but a well‑cut round compensates with superior sparkle that draws the eye.
- L:W ratio: ~1.00 (avoid noticeable out‑of‑roundness)
- Bow‑tie: Not a concern in round brilliants
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
Rounds usually command the highest price per carat due to demand and cutting waste, so prioritise cut to maximise beauty.
- Prioritise cut: Aim for Excellent/Ideal cut with very good to excellent symmetry and polish.
- Certification: For natural diamonds, GIA reports are widely trusted in the UK; IGI is common for lab‑grown. Always buy with a reputable certificate.
- Budget smart: If size is the goal, consider lab‑grown to unlock carat without sacrificing cut.
- Check performance: View in varied lighting; avoid lower cut grades if sparkle matters.
- Setting security: Four or six claws are classic; a bezel gives sleek protection for active lifestyles.
Among the main types of diamond shapes, the round brilliant remains the reference point—ideal if you want guaranteed sparkle and a forever‑classic look.
2. Oval diamond
If you love the brilliance of rounds but want a more individual silhouette, the oval is a standout among the types of diamond shapes. Its elegant length creates a flattering, finger‑elongating look with impressive face‑up presence for the carat.
Outline and style at a glance
An oval blends the classic round with a marquise‑like outline for a modern‑romantic feel. It flatters most hands and slips effortlessly from minimalist solitaires to detailed halos.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Fancy brilliant (elongated) |
| Typical facets | 56–58 |
| Vibe | Elegant, slimming, big visual spread |
Cut style, facets and light return
Ovals use a brilliant facet pattern to maximise sparkle while the elongated outline creates broad flashes of light. Many stones show some “bow‑tie” (a darker band across the centre); the goal is a subtle bow‑tie with bright, even performance in different lights.
Pros and cons
- Pros:
- Looks larger for weight: Strong “spread effect” versus rounds of the same carat.
- Finger‑lengthening: The outline visually slims and elongates.
- Cons:
- Bow‑tie risk: Needs careful selection to avoid a heavy dark band.
- Symmetry sensitive: Uneven ends or off‑centre culet can look “wonky”.
Best ring settings
Keep the look clean to showcase the shape, or amplify presence with a halo.
- Solitaire (4 or 6 claws or bezel): Timeless and secure.
- Hidden‑halo or pavé band: Extra sparkle without bulk.
- East‑west mount: Contemporary twist; north‑south maximises elongation.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
Ovals offer excellent finger coverage and tend to face up larger than rounds. Length‑to‑width influences the mood: shorter feels chunkier; longer feels sleeker.
- L:W ratios: Elongated shapes commonly range
~1.2–2.0; mid‑range often looks most balanced. - Check in motion: Assess bow‑tie and brightness face‑up and when tilted.
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
Ovals are typically priced below round brilliants per carat and can deliver strong value thanks to their spread.
- Certification: GIA is widely trusted for natural; IGI is common for lab‑grown.
- Evaluate the bow‑tie: View under mixed lighting; avoid overly dark centres.
- Prioritise symmetry & light: Even ends, centred outline, lively facet pattern.
- Setting security: Well‑placed claws or a bezel protect the perimeter for daily wear.
An oval diamond gives you brilliant sparkle, graceful lines and more presence for your budget—ideal if you want something classic‑adjacent yet unmistakably your own.
3. Cushion cut diamond
Romantic and softly squared, the cushion is one of the most loved diamond shapes for vintage‑inspired and modern rings alike. Often called the “pillow‑cut”, it offers the brilliant sparkle people want from the main types of diamond shapes, but with rounded corners and a gentler outline than a princess or radiant.
Outline and style at a glance
Cushions can be square or slightly rectangular, with curved corners that feel elegant and timeless. They suit minimalist solitaires, ornate halos and everything between.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Fancy brilliant (square to elongated) |
| Typical facets | ~58–64 |
| Vibe | Vintage‑meets‑modern, soft yet sparkly |
Cut style, facets and light return
Cushions use a brilliant facet pattern and come in two broad looks: “chunky” (bigger, distinct facets with clear flashes) and “crushed ice” (smaller facets with a shimmery, glittery look). Both can be lively when well cut; assess brightness, contrast and fire in varied lighting.
Pros and cons
- Pros:
- Soft corners: More snag‑resistant than sharp‑cornered squares.
- Versatile style: Works in solitaire, halo and three‑stone designs.
- Characterful sparkle: Choice of chunky or crushed‑ice faceting.
- Cons:
- Spread vs elongated shapes: Faces up smaller than ovals/marquise at the same carat.
- Cut variance: Light return varies widely—selection matters.
Best ring settings
- Halo or hidden halo: Enhances outline and finger coverage.
- Claw or bezel solitaire: Lets the pillow profile shine; bezel adds protection.
- Three‑stone: Beautiful with tapered baguettes or half‑moons.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
Square cushions feel classic; elongated cushions create a sleeker finger‑lengthening effect and can look larger for the weight. Length‑to‑width ranges from near‑square (~1:1) to elongated; elongated shapes often sit within broader elongated ratios (~1.2–2.0, preference dependent). View face‑up and in motion to judge brightness across the table.
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
- Value vs rounds: Typically priced below round brilliants per carat.
- Certification: GIA is widely trusted for natural; IGI is common for lab‑grown.
- Pick your look: Decide between chunky vs crushed‑ice before shortlisting.
- Assess light: Avoid stones that look mushy or glassy in the centre; check under mixed lighting.
- Practicality: Rounded corners are durable for daily wear; secure with refined claws or a bezel.
If you’re after romance, character and versatile sparkle, the cushion cut diamond is a superb choice among the main types of diamond shapes.
4. Princess cut diamond
Angular, bright and unmistakably modern, the princess cut delivers brilliant‑style sparkle in a clean square outline. If you want a contemporary look among the main types of diamond shapes, this is the geometric classic that still feels fresh.
Outline and style at a glance
Its sharp corners and crisp symmetry suit minimal solitaires and graphic halos alike, while the brilliant faceting keeps the fire and scintillation high.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Fancy brilliant (square to rectangular) |
| Typical facets | 50+ chevron facets (often 58–76) |
| Vibe | Modern, architectural, high scintillation |
Cut style, facets and light return
A princess is a square modified brilliant with pointed corners and chevron‑shaped pavilion facets that concentrate sparkle into lively flashes. Well‑proportioned stones show bright, even light across the table with strong scintillation; symmetry and facet alignment are key to avoiding dull centres.
Pros and cons
- Pros:
- Contemporary look: Sharp geometry with serious sparkle.
- Value vs rounds: Typically priced lower per carat than round brilliants.
- Practical clarity: Often shows inclusions less readily than some shapes.
- Cons:
- Fragile corners: Needs protective prongs or a bezel.
- Spread: Faces up smaller than elongated shapes of equal carat.
Best ring settings
Protect the points and let the square silhouette take centre stage.
- Solitaire with V‑prongs: Classic, secure showcase of the shape.
- Bezel or halo: Adds protection and maximises finger coverage.
- Three‑stone: Pairs well with tapered baguettes, trillions or trapezoids.
- Channel‑set shoulders: Clean, modern lines that echo the geometry.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
Most buyers prefer a near‑square outline (~1.00 L:W) for a balanced look; some choose slightly rectangular for a sleeker vibe. Expect strong width coverage on the finger, though not the lengthening effect you get from ovals or marquise.
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
Princess cuts can be a smart value play in the UK, especially if you love brilliant sparkle but want a modern square.
- Certification: Choose trusted reports—GIA for natural; IGI is common for lab‑grown.
- Inspect corners: Check for chips and ensure V‑prongs or a bezel protect the points.
- Judge with your eyes: View under mixed lighting for brightness and contrast across the table.
- Budgeting: Generally lower per‑carat pricing than rounds; lab‑grown can stretch size further without compromising cut.
- Setting choice: Slim, refined claws keep the square crisp; halos boost presence if you want more coverage.
5. Emerald cut diamond
Quietly glamorous and architectural, the emerald cut is for those who prefer clarity, depth and clean lines over glitter. Among the types of diamond shapes, it’s the connoisseur’s choice—sleek, refined and undeniably elegant.
Outline and style at a glance
Rectangular with cropped corners, the emerald cut channels Art Deco poise and modern minimalism. Its elongated outline flatters the hand and pairs beautifully with streamlined settings.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Step cut (rectangular with cropped corners) |
| Typical facets | ~57 |
| Vibe | Sophisticated, Art Deco, “hall‑of‑mirrors” depth |
Cut style, facets and light return
Emerald cuts use parallel, rectangular step facets and a large open table. Instead of the pin‑fire sparkle of brilliants, you’ll see broad, elegant flashes—the “hall‑of‑mirrors” effect. Because the top is so open, cut precision, symmetry and polish are crucial to keep the centre lively rather than flat.
Pros and cons
- Pros:
- Refined depth: Distinctive hall‑of‑mirrors flashes.
- Finger‑elongating: Elegant rectangular outline.
- Value: Often priced lower per carat than rounds.
- Durability: Cropped corners reduce snagging vs pointed shapes.
- Cons:
- Shows inclusions/colour: Step cuts don’t hide flaws; selection matters.
- Subtler sparkle: Less scintillation than brilliant cuts.
Best ring settings
- Solitaire (four claws, double claws or bezel): Lets the geometry speak; bezel adds sleek protection.
- Three‑stone: Stunning with tapered baguettes or trapezoids.
- Hidden halo/step halo: Boosts presence while keeping the look crisp.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
Emerald cuts offer graceful lengthwise coverage and a slimming effect. Length‑to‑width preferences vary by taste; emeralds fall within elongated norms (~1.2–2.0). Look for even shoulders, centred culet and balanced steps. There’s no bow‑tie to worry about—focus on consistent brightness across the table.
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
- Price & value: Commonly among the least expensive shapes per carat; elongated spread helps presence.
- Certification: GIA is widely trusted for natural; IGI is common for lab‑grown in the UK.
- Clarity & colour: Step cuts reveal more—consider tighter clarity and colour to keep the centre clean and icy.
- Assess in varied light: Avoid stones that look glassy or “windowed”; seek crisp on/off flashes.
- Setting security: Refined claws or a bezel protect edges; keep prongs aligned with the cropped corners.
- Budgeting: Lab‑grown can unlock larger carat weights while prioritising cut, symmetry and polish.
If you prize understatement, geometry and luminous depth, the emerald cut delivers timeless sophistication within the main types of diamond shapes.
6. Pear-shaped diamond
Part round, part marquise, the pear is a graceful teardrop that flatters the hand and brings drama without fuss. Among the main types of diamond shapes, it’s adored for finger‑elongating elegance and strong face‑up presence for the carat.
Outline and style at a glance
A rounded “head” flows to a pointed “tip”, so symmetry is everything. Traditionally worn with the point towards the nail, pears look stunning as solitaires and are exceptional in halo designs.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Fancy brilliant (asymmetrical) |
| Typical facets | ~58 |
| Vibe | Romantic, elegant, elongating |
Cut style, facets and light return
Pear diamonds use a brilliant facet pattern for lively sparkle. Many show a bow‑tie (a darker band across the centre); aim for a subtle bow‑tie with bright, even light and well‑matched shoulders. Precise symmetry keeps the outline refined and the tip centred.
Pros and cons
- Pros:
- Looks larger for weight: Excellent spread and finger‑lengthening effect.
- Distinctive silhouette: Classic with a fresh, romantic twist.
- Cons:
- Bow‑tie risk: Needs careful selection for balanced brightness.
- Delicate tip: Requires protective setting and mindful wear.
Best ring settings
- Solitaire (tip‑protecting claw or bezel): Showcases the shape and secures the point.
- Halo/hidden halo: Adds sparkle and enhances symmetry and coverage.
- Three‑stone: Beautiful with tapered baguettes for sleek shoulders.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
Pears offer generous coverage and a slimming effect. Length‑to‑width influences the mood: shorter feels cute and bold; longer feels sleek and dramatic.
- L:W ratios: Elongated styles often sit within
~1.2–2.0(taste‑dependent). - What to check: Even shoulders, centred tip, gentle head curve and a restrained bow‑tie.
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
- Price & value: Commonly priced below round brilliants per carat; strong visual size for budget.
- Certification: GIA is widely trusted for natural; IGI is common for lab‑grown in the UK.
- Assess in varied light: Judge bow‑tie and brightness face‑up and in motion.
- Set for durability: Choose a design that protects the tip; halos and bezels add security.
- Want more size? Lab‑grown can unlock higher carat while keeping cut and symmetry priorities.
A pear‑shaped diamond delivers romantic lines, brilliant sparkle and standout presence—ideal if you want a distinctive look among the types of diamond shapes without sacrificing everyday elegance.
7. Marquise diamond
Striking and slender with pointed tips, the marquise offers maximum drama for minimal weight. If you’re comparing the main types of diamond shapes for the biggest face‑up look, this elongated classic is hard to beat and famously flatters the fingers.
Outline and style at a glance
With its boat‑like outline and tapered points, the marquise feels bold yet elegant. It brings vintage romance to solitaires and real presence to halos without looking heavy.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Fancy brilliant (elongated, pointed ends) |
| Also called | Navette |
| Typical facets | ~58 |
| Vibe | Dramatic, elongating, standout spread |
Cut style, facets and light return
A marquise uses a brilliant facet pattern to deliver lively sparkle. As with other elongated brilliants, some show a bow‑tie across the centre—aim for a subtle bow‑tie with bright, even light from end to end.
Pros and cons
A distinctive silhouette with serious spread, but it needs careful setting and selection.
- Pros:
- Looks larger for weight: Excellent “spread effect” and finger lengthening.
- Iconic outline: Instantly recognisable, vintage‑to‑modern friendly.
- Cons:
- Bow‑tie risk: Poorly cut stones can look dark in the centre.
- Delicate tips: Points need protective prongs or a bezel.
Best ring settings
Keep the profile sleek and protect the tips while showcasing the length.
- Solitaire with V‑prongs: Clean lines and secure points.
- Halo or hidden halo: Boosts coverage and softens the outline.
- Three‑stone: Beautiful with tapered baguettes for streamlined shoulders.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
The marquise excels at finger‑elongation and visual size. Length‑to‑width ratio steers the mood: shorter feels bolder; longer looks ultra‑sleek. Check symmetry, centred points and even “wings” on both sides.
- L:W ratios: Often appealing within
~1.2–2.0(taste‑dependent). - Inspect in motion: Seek balanced brightness with a restrained bow‑tie.
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
Marquise diamonds are typically priced below round brilliants per carat and offer standout presence for the budget.
- Certification: GIA for natural is widely trusted; IGI common for lab‑grown.
- Assess bow‑tie: View under mixed lighting; avoid overly dark centres.
- Protect the points: Specify V‑prongs or consider a bezel/halo for durability.
- Symmetry matters: Aligned tips, even shoulders and centred outline.
- Value play: Lab‑grown can unlock larger sizes while prioritising cut and symmetry.
If you want a head‑turning silhouette with elegant length and great value among the types of diamond shapes, the marquise delivers in style.
8. Radiant cut diamond
A radiant cut blends the clean, rectangular outline of an emerald with the lively brilliance of a round. If you want high sparkle in a modern shape among the types of diamond shapes, the radiant delivers energy, versatility and durability thanks to its cropped corners.
Outline and style at a glance
With either a square or elongated silhouette, the radiant reads contemporary yet timeless. Its clipped corners keep the geometry soft enough for everyday wear while the brilliant faceting keeps the fire high.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Fancy brilliant (square or rectangular with cropped corners) |
| Typical facets | ~70 |
| Vibe | Modern, vibrant, durable |
Cut style, facets and light return
Radiants use a brilliant-cut facet pattern on both crown and pavilion, engineered for strong brilliance, fire and scintillation. Think of it as the sparkle of a round housed in an emerald‑style frame. Because of the facet density, radiants often mask inclusions better than step‑cut shapes and produce lively “glittering” movement across the table when well proportioned.
Pros and cons
Radiants are a smart bridge between step‑cut elegance and brilliant sparkle, but selection matters to get an even, bright face‑up.
- Pros:
- Hybrid appeal: Emerald‑like outline with round‑like sparkle.
- Hides inclusions well: More forgiving than emerald/Asscher step cuts.
- Practical corners: Cropped corners reduce snagging and chipping.
- Value vs rounds: Commonly priced below round brilliants per carat.
- Cons:
- Cut variance: Light return and pattern differ widely stone‑to‑stone.
- Spread vs elongated shapes: Elongated radiants lengthen the finger, but ovals/marquise still look larger for the same carat to many eyes.
Best ring settings
Show off the geometry and protect the corners. Radiants are adaptable, working from minimal to statement designs.
- Solitaire (corner claws or bezel): Sleek and secure.
- Halo or hidden halo: Maximises finger coverage and sparkle.
- Three‑stone: Excellent with tapered baguettes, trapezoids or half‑moons for angular harmony.
- Pavé band: Adds sparkle without overpowering the centre.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
Square radiants feel bold and modern; elongated radiants visually slim and lengthen the finger. Length‑to‑width steers the mood from compact to sleek.
- L:W ratios: Near‑square around
~1.00; elongated options sit comfortably within~1.2–2.0(taste‑dependent). - What to check: Even brightness from corner to corner, centred outline, balanced corners and pleasing contrast under varied lighting.
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
Radiants can be a high‑impact, cost‑savvy choice in the UK, especially if you want sparkle with a rectangular outline.
- Certification: For natural diamonds, GIA is widely trusted; IGI is commonly seen for lab‑grown.
- Cut and light: Compare side‑by‑side in mixed lighting; avoid dull centres or overly “glassy” tables.
- Clarity flexibility: Thanks to brilliant faceting, you can often prioritise cut and size over very high clarity.
- Corner protection: Specify well‑placed claws on each cropped corner or choose a bezel/halo for everyday durability.
- Budgeting: Typically lower per‑carat than rounds; lab‑grown options can unlock larger sizes while keeping cut quality front and centre.
A radiant cut diamond brings modern lines, confident sparkle and wear‑ready durability—an inspired pick if you’re weighing the main types of diamond shapes and want the best of both worlds.
9. Asscher cut diamond
Square, structured and ultra‑refined, the Asscher cut is the geometric twin to the emerald cut. If you’re exploring the main types of diamond shapes and love Art Deco character with a connoisseur’s calm sparkle, the Asscher’s hypnotic depth is compelling.
Outline and style at a glance
A square outline with cropped corners gives the Asscher its signature vintage‑meets‑modern feel. It’s less common than rounds or ovals, so it instantly reads distinctive while staying elegantly understated.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Step cut (square with cropped corners) |
| Typical facets | 58–74 |
| Vibe | Art Deco, geometric, refined |
Cut style, facets and light return
Like an emerald cut, the Asscher uses parallel step facets and a broad, open table—but with a higher crown and smaller table for a deeper, more architectural look. The best stones show a crisp “windmill” pattern and on/off flashes—the classic hall‑of‑mirrors effect.
Pros and cons
An Asscher trades overt sparkle for mesmerising depth; selection quality is key.
- Pros:
- Architectural beauty: Distinct windmill pattern and mirror‑like flashes.
- Timeless geometry: Cropped corners and symmetry feel beautifully composed.
- Value: Typically costs less per carat than round brilliants.
- Cons:
- Shows inclusions/colour: Step cuts are less forgiving—choose carefully.
- Face‑up presence: Square outline doesn’t elongate the finger like ovals or marquise.
Best ring settings
Let the clean lines shine and keep corners protected.
- Solitaire (double claws or bezel): Minimal, secure and sculptural.
- Three‑stone: Perfect with tapered baguettes or trapezoids.
- Vintage halos: Step or milgrain halos amplify the Art Deco vibe.
- Sleek pavé band: Adds sparkle without stealing focus.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
Asschers give balanced width on the finger with a poised, square stance. They won’t lengthen the finger like elongated shapes, so choose according to the look you prefer. Focus on symmetry: even steps, a centred culet and consistent brightness across the table—there’s no bow‑tie to worry about.
- L:W ratio: Aim for
~1.00for a true square. - What to check: Aligned facets, crisp corners and a defined windmill.
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
Asschers can be a savvy value among the types of diamond shapes in the UK, especially if you prioritise cut precision over maximum sparkle.
- Certification: GIA is widely trusted for natural; IGI is common for lab‑grown.
- Prioritise clarity/colour: Step cuts reveal more—tighten these grades if you want an icy, eye‑clean look.
- Symmetry & polish: Seek excellent/very good to keep the centre lively, not glassy.
- Compare in mixed light: Look for sharp on/off flashes and a clear windmill.
- Setting security: Double claws or a bezel protect cropped corners for daily wear.
If you’re drawn to cool, composed elegance with architectural depth, the Asscher cut is a sophisticated standout within the classic types of diamond shapes.
10. Heart-shaped diamond
The most symbolic of the types of diamond shapes, the heart is unmistakably romantic and a little bit bold. Its beauty depends on precision: a crisp cleft, even “lobes”, a centred point and graceful symmetry. When those elements line up, you get lively brilliance and a silhouette that says it all at a glance.
Outline and style at a glance
A true heart should look balanced—neither too squat nor too narrow—with matching curves and a clearly defined cleft. It feels special-occasion ready yet can be wonderfully wearable day to day in the right setting.
| Quick facts | Details |
|---|---|
| Shape family | Fancy brilliant (symmetrical) |
| Typical facets | ~56–58 |
| Vibe | Romantic, distinctive, statement |
Cut style, facets and light return
As a brilliant‑style cut, a heart throws bright flashes and fire when well proportioned. Because the outline is complex, cut precision and symmetry are critical to keep the centre lively and the shape clearly legible. Look for even brightness across the face and a cleft that’s neatly carved, not shallow.
Pros and cons
- Pros:
- Instant romance: The ultimate symbol with lively brilliant sparkle.
- Less common: Stands out versus classic rounds and ovals.
- Cons:
- Cut sensitivity: Small deviations in symmetry show quickly.
- Delicate point: Needs protective setting and mindful wear.
- Smaller sizes: Very small hearts can lose definition face‑up.
Best ring settings
- Solitaire with point protection (V‑prong or bezel): Highlights the shape and secures the tip.
- Halo or hidden halo: Adds presence, refines the outline and enhances symmetry.
- Three‑prong/three‑stone options: Minimal metal with secure protection and elegant shoulders.
Face-up size, ratios and finger coverage
Hearts offer generous width coverage; the length‑to‑width balance steers the mood. Shorter hearts feel cute and bold; longer hearts read sleeker. Aim for a harmonious outline with matching lobes, a centred point and a clean, visible cleft that reads as a heart from arm’s length.
UK buying tips (price, certification, pitfalls)
- Price & value: Typically priced below round brilliants per carat; you’re paying for precision, not popularity.
- Certification: For natural diamonds, GIA is widely trusted in the UK; IGI is common for lab‑grown.
- Assess symmetry first: Matching lobes, centred tip, even shoulders and a defined cleft.
- View in mixed lighting: Seek bright, even sparkle without dull patches.
- Consider size: Choose a size where the outline remains clearly heart‑shaped in real‑world viewing.
- Protect the point: Specify a V‑prong or bezel; halos add both security and presence.
- Value play: Lab‑grown can unlock a larger, more defined heart while keeping cut quality the priority.
If you want romance you can see across the room, the heart‑shaped diamond is a distinctive, meaningful choice within the classic types of diamond shapes.
Next steps
You now know how each shape behaves: rounds maximise sparkle, step cuts (emerald/Asscher) showcase clarity and depth, and elongated brilliants (oval, pear, marquise, elongated radiant/cushion) deliver standout finger coverage. Shortlist two or three shapes that match your style and lifestyle, then compare real stones side‑by‑side in mixed lighting. Prioritise great cutting, protect fragile points with the right setting, and buy with trusted certification (GIA for natural; IGI is common for lab‑grown in the UK).
Ready to see your shortlist come to life? View handpicked natural or lab‑grown options, compare light performance, and explore bespoke settings with our Hatton Garden team. From UK‑made craftsmanship to lifetime resizing, polishing and cleaning, we’ll help you get more beauty for your budget and a ring that tells your story. Start your journey with A Star Diamonds and book an in‑person or virtual consultation today.
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