Choosing the best diamond shape for engagement ring purchases is one of the most personal decisions you’ll make during this exciting journey. Each shape carries its own character, from the timeless brilliance of a round cut to the bold sophistication of an emerald. The right choice depends on far more than what’s trending; it’s about finding the shape that reflects your partner’s style, flatters their hand, and captures the essence of your love story.

At A Star Diamonds, our Hatton Garden goldsmiths and gemologists have spent years helping couples navigate this exact decision. We’ve witnessed firsthand how the perfect diamond shape transforms a ring from simply beautiful to deeply meaningful, and how the wrong choice can leave someone second-guessing their purchase.

This guide breaks down the ten most popular diamond shapes available in the UK, comparing their sparkle, durability, value, and how each one looks on different hand types. Whether you’re drawn to classic elegance or contemporary flair, you’ll find the insights you need to choose with confidence.

1. Round brilliant

The round brilliant cut stands as the undisputed champion of engagement rings, accounting for nearly 70% of all UK diamond purchases in 2025. This 57-facet masterpiece maximizes light return through its mathematically precise proportions, creating the signature sparkle that makes it the best diamond shape for engagement ring traditionalists. Your jeweller cuts each facet at specific angles to bounce light back through the crown, delivering unmatched brilliance that catches the eye from across the room.

What it looks like on the hand

Round brilliants create a timeless, balanced appearance on any finger, neither elongating nor widening the hand. The perfectly circular outline offers versatility that works equally well in solitaire settings, halo designs, or three-stone arrangements. You’ll find this shape particularly effective when set in four or six prongs, which allow maximum light entry whilst securing the stone safely.

Sparkle and light performance

No other shape comes close to the exceptional brilliance of a round brilliant. The 58 facets (including the culet) work together to reflect nearly all entering light back to your eye, creating that signature fire and scintillation. Premium cuts achieve what gemologists call "ideal proportions", where the depth percentage sits between 59-62.6% and the table measures 54-57% of the diameter.

A well-cut round brilliant reflects approximately 90% of light back through the crown, whilst poorly proportioned cuts can lose over half of their brilliance to light leakage.

Best for finger and hand types

Round brilliants flatter all hand shapes equally, making them the safest choice if you’re unsure about proportions. Shorter fingers benefit from the neutral profile that neither emphasizes nor minimizes length, whilst wider hands appreciate the classic balance.

Pros and trade-offs

The primary advantage lies in universal appeal and resale value, with round brilliants maintaining worth better than any fancy shape. However, you’ll pay a premium of 25-35% more per carat compared to equivalent-quality fancy shapes, since cutters must remove more rough diamond to achieve the perfect circle.

Typical UK price notes

Expect to invest £3,500-£5,000 for a quality 1-carat round brilliant in G-H colour and VS2 clarity from reputable Hatton Garden jewellers. Lab-grown alternatives typically cost 60-70% less, offering identical sparkle at £1,500-£2,000 for the same specifications.

2. Oval

The oval cut has surged in popularity throughout 2025, becoming the second most requested shape at Hatton Garden jewellers. This elongated brilliant cut combines the sparkle of a round with a distinctive silhouette, offering 56 facets that deliver exceptional fire. You’ll find this shape particularly appealing if you want something recognizable yet slightly different from the traditional round, making it an increasingly popular choice for the best diamond shape for engagement ring searches.

What it looks like on the hand

Oval diamonds create an elegant elongating effect that makes fingers appear longer and more slender. The soft curves and pointed ends draw the eye vertically, adding graceful length without the sharp angles of other shapes. You’ll notice this shape typically measures 1.35 to 1.50 length-to-width ratio, with personal preference determining whether you choose a more rounded or elongated profile.

Sparkle and light performance

Ovals deliver brilliant-cut sparkle comparable to rounds, with similar facet patterns that maximize light return. Your primary concern with this shape involves the bow-tie effect, a dark area across the center that appears in poorly cut stones. Premium cuts minimize this shadow through careful pavilion angle optimization.

Quality oval cuts eliminate visible bow-ties through precise depth percentages between 58-62% and optimal facet alignment.

Best for finger and hand types

Shorter fingers benefit most from oval diamonds, as the vertical emphasis visually lengthens the hand. Wider fingers also appreciate the slimming appearance this shape creates, whilst petite hands find the elongated profile less overwhelming than wide shapes.

Pros and trade-offs

Ovals offer 10-15% more surface area than equivalent-carat rounds, creating impressive visual impact for your budget. The shape also costs 20-30% less per carat than rounds. However, you must carefully inspect for bow-ties and ensure symmetry, as poor proportions become obvious in this shape.

Typical UK price notes

Quality 1-carat ovals in G-H colour and VS2 clarity cost £2,800-£4,000 from established Hatton Garden jewellers, whilst lab-grown versions range from £1,200-£1,800.

3. Emerald

The emerald cut represents sophisticated minimalism, featuring rectangular facets arranged in parallel steps that create a distinctive hall-of-mirrors effect. This shape appeals to those seeking understated elegance rather than maximum sparkle, making it the best diamond shape for engagement ring buyers who value architectural beauty over brilliance. You’ll recognize this cut by its 48 to 50 facets and large open table that showcases the diamond’s clarity rather than hiding inclusions through light dispersion.

What it looks like on the hand

Emerald cuts create a sleek, elongated appearance that draws attention through clean lines rather than sparkle. The step-cut facets and rectangular outline produce a refined, vintage-inspired aesthetic that suits those drawn to Art Deco styling. Your jeweller typically sets these stones with corner prongs to protect the vulnerable edges whilst maintaining the shape’s geometric integrity.

Sparkle and light performance

This shape produces subtle flashes of light rather than the intense brilliance of round cuts. The large open table and parallel facets create a windowed effect that emphasizes clarity over fire, making VS2 or better clarity essential for this cut.

Emerald cuts reveal inclusions more readily than brilliant cuts, requiring higher clarity grades to maintain their sophisticated appearance.

Best for finger and hand types

Longer fingers showcase emerald cuts beautifully, as the vertical orientation complements natural length. Wider fingers benefit from the slimming rectangular profile, though shorter fingers may find the horizontal emphasis less flattering.

Pros and trade-offs

Emerald cuts cost 15-25% less per carat than rounds whilst appearing larger due to their elongated shape. However, you sacrifice sparkle for elegance, and clarity becomes critical since flaws show readily through the open table.

Typical UK price notes

Quality 1-carat emeralds in F-G colour and VS1 clarity range from £2,500-£3,500 at Hatton Garden jewellers, whilst lab-grown alternatives cost £1,000-£1,500.

4. Cushion

The cushion cut blends vintage charm with modern brilliance, featuring rounded corners and larger facets that create a distinctive pillow-like appearance. This shape evolved from the Old Mine cut popular in the 19th century, now refined with contemporary facet patterns that enhance sparkle. You’ll find cushion cuts particularly appealing if you seek romantic character with substantial presence, making it a compelling choice for the best diamond shape for engagement ring vintage enthusiasts.

What it looks like on the hand

Cushion diamonds present a soft, rounded square profile that creates a gentle, feminine aesthetic on the hand. The curved edges and substantial surface area deliver visual weight without sharp corners, typically measuring 1.00 to 1.10 length-to-width ratio for square cushions or up to 1.30 for rectangular variations.

Sparkle and light performance

Modern cushion cuts offer brilliant or modified brilliant facet patterns that produce exceptional fire and sparkle. The larger facets create bold flashes of colour rather than the smaller scintillation of rounds, making this shape particularly effective at displaying fire.

Cushion cuts excel at colour dispersion, breaking white light into visible spectrum colours more effectively than most brilliant cuts.

Best for finger and hand types

Wider hands benefit from the balanced proportions of square cushions, whilst longer fingers showcase rectangular variations beautifully. The soft corners flatter all hand types without creating harsh lines.

Pros and trade-offs

Cushions cost 20-30% less per carat than rounds whilst appearing larger due to shallow depth. However, cut quality varies significantly between cutters, requiring careful evaluation of light performance.

Typical UK price notes

Quality 1-carat cushions in G-H colour and VS2 clarity range from £2,600-£3,800 at Hatton Garden jewellers, whilst lab-grown versions cost £1,100-£1,600.

5. Princess

The princess cut delivers modern sophistication through its square silhouette and brilliant faceting, creating a contemporary alternative to traditional rounds. This shape emerged in the 1960s, featuring 57 to 58 facets that combine the sparkle of round brilliants with angular geometry. You’ll find princess cuts particularly appealing if you seek the best diamond shape for engagement ring designs that balance boldness with brilliance, especially in solitaire settings that showcase their sharp corners.

What it looks like on the hand

Princess diamonds create a clean, geometric appearance that suits modern aesthetics perfectly. The sharp 90-degree corners and square profile deliver architectural presence without the soft curves of other shapes, typically measuring 1.00 to 1.05 length-to-width ratio for ideal proportions. Your jeweller will likely recommend four-prong settings that protect the vulnerable corners whilst maintaining the distinctive square outline.

Sparkle and light performance

This shape produces exceptional brilliance through modified brilliant faceting that rivals round cuts. The inverted pyramid pavilion reflects light powerfully through the crown, creating intense sparkle that appeals to those who value fire.

Princess cuts maximize rough diamond yield whilst delivering brilliant-cut sparkle, making them efficient choices that don’t sacrifice visual impact.

Best for finger and hand types

Longer fingers showcase princess cuts beautifully, as the square shape creates balanced proportions without excessive width. Wider hands also benefit from the geometric lines that add definition, though shorter fingers may find the horizontal emphasis less flattering than elongated shapes.

Pros and trade-offs

Princess cuts cost 20-30% less per carat than rounds whilst offering comparable sparkle. However, the sharp corners remain vulnerable to chipping, requiring protective prong placement and careful daily wear.

Typical UK price notes

Quality 1-carat princess cuts in G-H colour and VS2 clarity range from £2,500-£3,600 at Hatton Garden jewellers, whilst lab-grown alternatives cost £1,000-£1,500.

6. Pear

The pear cut combines the brilliance of rounds with the elegance of marquise shapes, creating a distinctive teardrop silhouette that stands out from traditional choices. This 58-facet hybrid delivers exceptional sparkle through its rounded end whilst the pointed tip adds graceful sophistication. You’ll recognize this shape as a favourite among those seeking the best diamond shape for engagement ring designs that balance uniqueness with timeless appeal, particularly when set with the point facing toward the fingertip.

What it looks like on the hand

Pear diamonds create a dramatically elongating effect that makes fingers appear noticeably longer and more slender. The asymmetric design and pointed tip draw the eye vertically, offering maximum length perception amongst all shapes. Your jeweller typically recommends 1.50 to 1.75 length-to-width ratios for balanced proportions, though personal preference determines whether you choose a more rounded or elongated profile.

Sparkle and light performance

This shape produces brilliant-cut sparkle comparable to rounds, with modified faceting that maximizes light return. Your primary concern involves the bow-tie effect, which appears in poorly cut stones as a dark shadow across the center.

Premium pear cuts eliminate visible bow-ties through precise depth percentages between 58-62% and careful pavilion angle alignment.

Best for finger and hand types

Shorter fingers benefit most from pear diamonds, as the vertical emphasis visually lengthens the hand dramatically. Petite hands also appreciate the slimming appearance this shape creates without overwhelming proportions.

Pros and trade-offs

Pears cost 15-25% less per carat than rounds whilst offering comparable sparkle and impressive visual size. However, the pointed tip remains vulnerable to chipping, requiring protective V-prong settings.

Typical UK price notes

Quality 1-carat pears in G-H colour and VS2 clarity range from £2,700-£3,700 at Hatton Garden jewellers, whilst lab-grown versions cost £1,100-£1,600.

7. Marquise

The marquise cut features an elongated football shape with pointed ends that create maximum visual length amongst all diamond shapes. This 56 to 58-facet brilliant cut originated in 18th-century France, designed to resemble the smile of King Louis XV’s mistress. You’ll find this shape particularly striking if you seek the best diamond shape for engagement ring designs that make bold statements whilst maximizing carat weight appearance through efficient use of the rough diamond.

What it looks like on the hand

Marquise diamonds deliver the most dramatic lengthening effect of any shape, making fingers appear noticeably longer and more slender. The pointed ends and curved sides create an elegant silhouette that draws attention through distinctive geometry. Your jeweller typically recommends 1.75 to 2.25 length-to-width ratios for balanced proportions, with six-prong settings protecting both vulnerable points.

Sparkle and light performance

This shape produces brilliant-cut sparkle through modified faceting that reflects light powerfully. Your primary consideration involves the bow-tie effect, which appears as a dark shadow across poorly cut stones. Premium cuts minimize this through careful pavilion depth optimization.

Marquise cuts appear 15-20% larger than round diamonds of identical carat weight, delivering exceptional visual impact for your budget.

Best for finger and hand types

Shorter fingers benefit dramatically from marquise diamonds, as the extreme vertical orientation creates maximum length perception. Petite hands also appreciate the slimming effect without overwhelming proportions.

Pros and trade-offs

Marquise cuts cost 20-30% less per carat than rounds whilst appearing substantially larger. However, the two pointed ends remain highly vulnerable to chipping, requiring protective V-prong settings and careful daily wear.

Typical UK price notes

Quality 1-carat marquise diamonds in G-H colour and VS2 clarity range from £2,400-£3,500 at Hatton Garden jewellers, whilst lab-grown alternatives cost £1,000-£1,500.

8. Radiant

The radiant cut merges the elegance of emerald shapes with brilliant-cut sparkle, featuring trimmed corners and 70 facets that create exceptional fire and light performance. This hybrid design emerged in 1977, combining step-cut and brilliant faceting to deliver the best of both worlds. You’ll find radiant cuts particularly appealing if you seek the best diamond shape for engagement ring designs that balance modern aesthetics with maximum brilliance, especially when you prefer rectangular outlines without vulnerable points.

What it looks like on the hand

Radiant diamonds create a sophisticated rectangular appearance with beveled corners that soften the geometric profile. The versatile outline and substantial presence deliver visual impact whilst protecting against chips through angled edges. Your jeweller typically recommends 1.15 to 1.50 length-to-width ratios for rectangular radiants, though square variations near 1.00 suit those preferring balanced proportions.

Sparkle and light performance

This shape produces exceptional brilliance through its unique facet pattern that combines brilliant and step-cut elements. The 70 facets create intense sparkle that rivals or exceeds round brilliants whilst maintaining clean lines.

Radiant cuts hide inclusions better than emerald cuts whilst delivering brilliance comparable to rounds, making them forgiving choices for clarity-conscious buyers.

Best for finger and hand types

Longer fingers showcase rectangular radiants beautifully, as the vertical orientation complements natural length without excessive elongation. Wider hands benefit from the balanced proportions of square radiants that add definition.

Pros and trade-offs

Radiants cost 15-25% less per carat than rounds whilst offering comparable or superior sparkle. The trimmed corners eliminate vulnerable points, improving durability over princess cuts.

Typical UK price notes

Quality 1-carat radiants in G-H colour and VS2 clarity range from £2,600-£3,700 at Hatton Garden jewellers, whilst lab-grown alternatives cost £1,100-£1,600.

9. Asscher

The Asscher cut features a square step-cut design with deeply trimmed corners that create an octagonal outline resembling an emerald turned 90 degrees. This 58-facet cut originated in 1902, designed by the legendary Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, and experienced renewed popularity during the Art Deco revival of the 2020s. You’ll appreciate this shape if you seek the best diamond shape for engagement ring designs that blend vintage sophistication with geometric precision, particularly when you value architectural beauty over maximum brilliance.

What it looks like on the hand

Asscher diamonds create a refined, symmetrical appearance that commands attention through clean lines rather than sparkle. The square outline with truncated corners produces an Art Deco aesthetic that suits those drawn to vintage styling. Your jeweller typically sets these stones with corner prongs to protect the beveled edges whilst maintaining the distinctive octagonal silhouette.

Sparkle and light performance

This shape produces subtle windowed flashes through parallel step-cut facets rather than intense brilliance. The deep pavilion and large open table create a hall-of-mirrors effect that emphasizes clarity, making VS1 or better clarity essential.

Asscher cuts reveal inclusions as readily as emeralds, requiring higher clarity grades to maintain their sophisticated windowed appearance.

Best for finger and hand types

Longer fingers showcase Asscher cuts beautifully, as the balanced square proportions create elegant symmetry. Wider hands also benefit from the defined geometric lines that add structure without excessive width.

Pros and trade-offs

Asscher cuts cost 20-30% less per carat than rounds whilst offering distinctive vintage character. However, you sacrifice sparkle for elegance, and clarity becomes critical since flaws show readily through the open table.

Typical UK price notes

Quality 1-carat Asschers in F-G colour and VS1 clarity range from £2,400-£3,400 at Hatton Garden jewellers, whilst lab-grown alternatives cost £1,000-£1,400.

10. Heart

The heart cut delivers the most romantic symbolism possible, featuring a distinctive two-lobed silhouette with a cleft at the top and pointed bottom that creates an unmistakable shape. This 56 to 58-facet modified brilliant cut requires exceptional cutting skill to achieve symmetry between the two halves. You’ll find this shape particularly meaningful if you seek the best diamond shape for engagement ring designs that make bold emotional statements, though it remains the least common choice due to its overtly romantic character.

What it looks like on the hand

Heart diamonds create a playful, feminine appearance that draws immediate attention through instantly recognizable symbolism. The curved lobes and central cleft produce a distinctive outline that works best in larger sizes, typically requiring 0.50 carats minimum to maintain clear definition. Your jeweller typically recommends three-prong settings that protect the cleft and point whilst maintaining the heart outline.

Sparkle and light performance

This shape produces brilliant-cut sparkle through modified faceting that reflects light effectively. Quality becomes critical, as poor symmetry between the two lobes ruins the romantic effect and creates unbalanced light return.

Heart cuts require precise symmetry and defined clefts to maintain their romantic appeal, making cut quality more critical than most shapes.

Best for finger and hand types

Longer fingers showcase heart diamonds beautifully, as the rounded top balances vertical proportions. Petite hands benefit from smaller carat weights that maintain clear definition without overwhelming.

Pros and trade-offs

Heart cuts cost 20-30% less per carat than rounds whilst offering unique romantic symbolism. However, the overtly romantic design limits versatility, and smaller sizes lose definition.

Typical UK price notes

Quality 1-carat hearts in G-H colour and VS2 clarity range from £2,500-£3,600 at Hatton Garden jewellers, whilst lab-grown alternatives cost £1,000-£1,500.

Next steps

Finding the best diamond shape for engagement ring purchases comes down to balancing personal style, practical considerations, and budget realities. You now understand how each shape performs on different hand types, which cuts maximize sparkle or elegance, and where you can find value without sacrificing quality. The ten shapes covered represent the full spectrum of options available from UK jewellers, each offering distinct advantages depending on your priorities.

Your journey doesn’t end with choosing a shape. The diamond’s cut quality, setting style, and metal choice all influence how the final ring looks and wears. At A Star Diamonds, our Hatton Garden team guides you through every decision, from selecting the perfect shape and specifications to designing a custom setting that brings your vision to life. Book a consultation with our gemologists and goldsmiths to see these shapes in person, try them on your partner’s hand type, and create a ring that captures your unique story.